Around the World with K & M: Semana Santa Vacations

Oaxaca

We spent the first of our two week vacation in Oaxaca (pronounced "Wa-ha-ka") State and Mexico City. We have decided that we're going to try to live in Oaxaca someday. It was an incredible place. Some of you may have heard of the riots in Mexico that took place last year - well, that was right in Oaxaca City. We spent about 4 days traveling around the city and surrounding villages. There are many indigenous groups in this poor state, and many feel the injustice from the central government. It was an amazing place with amazing people. It would be interesting to see how this place gets back on its feet with its many oppressions.

First stop: Oaxaca City - pop.263,000

We stayed in a bustling part of town where the city has done an excellent job at renovating and re-establishing the colourful and spirited nature of the town.

Las Bugambilias - the gorgeous B&B we stayed in.

The main pedestrian avenue (Calle Alcala) in downtown Oaxaca.

On Calle Gurrion, we met up with this skeleton.

A lady greets you as you approach Calle Alcala, near the English bookstore.

On Saturday night, we met up with a parade as we were
going back to our hotel. Turns out we got to see a Oaxacan wedding
tradition - they make "gigantes", or giant replicas of the bride & groom, and
dance in the streets with candles from the church to the reception.

A close-up of the bride gigante.

At the restaurant, La Biznaga, where their giant
menus hang from ceiling to floor. We ate awesome "fusion"
Mexican meals.

Second Stop: Tlaxiaco

Before we ever considered coming to Mexico, we were contacted by a missions organization called, "Global Frontiers," located in the state of Oaxaca. We decided to give them a visit, spending 2 hours on a combi from the city to the town of Tlaxiaco. We got there on Saturday morning, in time for their big market.

Women buying groceries from the vendors.

Even in front of the cathedral, vendors hawk their wares.
The two women are wearing traditional outfits called "Huipiles."

Lots of chiles for sale!!!

Third Stop: Tlacolula

We hopped into a colectivo (a taxi that you share with someone else) on Sunday morning to go to the village of Tlacolula for their market day. These markets move around from village to village, and they are GIGANTIC. We couldn't even get through the whole thing, but we managed to buy some nice hand-woven tablecloths.

Farm of Agave plants - used to make mezcal,
and of course, tequila!

Two ladies who followed us and whom we followed
all morning at the market.

The smoky, crowded, and very bustling section of the market - meat!

A knife sharpener in the midst of the meat section of the market.
I guess it makes sense?? Butchers need knives??

It might not be refrigerated, but it's definitely fresh.

As if it wasn't hot enough! These poor vendors are the "asada" folks - they'll barbeque the fresh
meat you bought right here! Taking your children here is certainly a hazard - I couldn't walk within a foot of these grills without feeling like I was going to cook.

Her name is Sofia. And that turkey she's carrying
is most certainly not a pet.

Sedated turkeys and chickens for sale!

In Tlacolula, we caught a glimpse of the Palm Sunday
parade - complete with Jesus arriving on a donkey (you can
just barely see them in this photo).

The Palm Sunday procession.

Fourth Stop: Back to Oaxaca City

This time we went to the very pulse of the city - the zocalo. We ate at a restaurant called, "La Casa de mi abuela," (My Grandmother's House), and watched a concert and just life happening all around us.

Eating above the zocalo. That's not a painting in the
background - it really is that beautiful!

We were lucky enough to catch a concert by the Oaxacan state
band in the zocalo as we were eating in the restaurant.

Our awesome meal - Oaxacan versions of the "chile poblano" -
poblano chiles stuffed with meat or cheese.

Palm Sunday - vendors galore outside the main cathedral selling braided
palm leaves - they made crosses and even Jesus hanging on the cross out of
palm leaves!

The zocalo, with the cathedral overlooking all the people.

A lady selling her desserts around the square.

Shoeshine-while-you-listen-to-a-concert.

Mexicans really love their "globos" or balloons.

On our way back into town from Tlacolula, we passed by this
"Barbequed Chicken" shop built right into a tree.

Later that day: Oaxaca City - Santo Domingo Monastery

We stopped off at the famous Iglesia de Santo Domingo to look at the "Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca." All the monks' cells have now been converted to house museum pieces. It was so peaceful, yet at the same time, it felt so oppressive. Maybe it was the rain.

The old library - it still houses Latin books so old they look like
they would disintegrate if anyone touched them.

The courtyard of the church.

Some impressive and intimidating hallways of the monastery:

Overlooking the gardens.

Another window out of the monastery.

Fifth Stop: Camino Real Oaxaca

I love looking at fancy hotels that we can never afford. This was a $400/night place, but probably quite deserving of it considering the amazing architecture and renovations it has gone through.

Inside the beautiful Camino Real Oaxaca hotel - a
converted 16th century convent, then prison, now a
UNESCO heritage site.

In the old chapel, we happened upon a concert! This was
the "reception area" complete with armed soldier.

We watched the concert for a little while. The acoustics
were amazing - I could picture monks chanting
back in the day.

Sixth Stop: Monte Alban

We spent Monday morning going to Monte Alban, an ancient Zapotec city located 400m above the valley. Its name means "White Mountain." The views were spectacular, and although the ruins themselves weren't as impressive as some others, it was the "location, location, location" that counted most of all.

A view of the plaza from the top of Plataforma Sur.

This is what it took to get to the top of Plataforma Sur. Climbing up
was tiring, but I nearly had a heart attack coming down.

The view of Plataforma Sur from the Plataforma Norte.

Looking out over the plaza and the surrounding villages
in the background, I really felt like I was on top of the world.

Seventh Stop: Ocotlan

Ocotlan is another village, about an hour away from Oaxaca. We hopped on yet another random bus at some random station and were dropped off at the square on a non-market day. We had come to meet the Aguilar Sisters, who are apparently famous for their colourful pottery, but were in for a few other unexpected, but welcomed, surprises.

The first thing we saw: Ocotlan's breathtaking cathedral.

We ended up at this Rodolfo Morales exhibition, which
is in this old convent (also previously a jail as well).
No one was around, and there were no signs, but a guy
popped out of the woodwork and demanded 30 pesos for us to look around. He was
very industrious - he followed us around turning on and off lights as we
looked throughthe gallery. Apparently we missed seeing where
Morales' ashes are interred.

It took a while for us to find them, but here is the house
of one of the Aguilar sisters, with two of her pieces greeting us.

A gigante-in-progress at an Aguilar sister's house.

Aguilar children hard at work - unfolding newspaper used for packing
so that they could reuse them again.

One of the Aguilar sister's houses (workshop/dining room) in Ocotlan.
The husband was just eating his lunch as we trampled through
his house. It was definitely one of my more bizarre shopping
experiences - just wander, pick up pieces you think might
be for sale, and then someone might come to sell it to you.

Eighth and Final Stop: Back to Oaxaca City

Oaxaca is such a beautiful and magical place, I couldn't help but take millions of photos. Here are some random scenes around the city.

I bought this palm leaf decoration in Tlacolula. I wanted
to keep it, cause you're supposed to hang it up until the next
Easter, but alas, we had too much luggage to carry.

An "alebrije" - these wooden sculptures are a specialty
of artists in villages around Oaxaca city - I especially liked
this one which I named "Sit-up Baboon."

A man sewing a picture together - it wasn't embroidering,
but he was "painting" with strings and needles.

One of many street families - they played from dawn till midnight,
and were actually really good.

Oaxacan coffee is awesome! We spent a lot of time at
coffee shops which Monterrey has few of.

I don't think I've had better potato chips. This
chip truck sold freshly sliced, then fried chips on the street.

Our last supper in Oaxaca - I had this fusion version of the "Tlayuda" - normally
it's a large tortilla filled with just meat and cheese, but this one was
covered first in red mole, then covered with the cheese, avocado, onion,
chicken and tomato. So good!!!!

One of many little coffee shops in Oaxaca. At this one, we were served
by a very intelligent and well-spoken 8 year old who was just helping
out his "abuelo."